Rishikesh, India: Three and a Half Weeks by the Ganges
Updated: 4 days ago
There are experiences that move us and shift us as human beings, this was one of them.
I spent January 31 to February 25, 2026 in Rishikesh for my 200-hour yoga teacher training. It's a mix of the deeply spiritual and the surprisingly modern, with cows, monkeys, and donkeys sharing the streets.
Getting there
I flew into Dehradun and took a cab I'd booked ahead online through Tripadvisor. It's about an hour's drive to Rishikesh, and booking ahead meant no haggling at the airport after a long flight.
Where I stayed
I stayed in the ashram housing at Rishikesh Vinyasa Yoga School in Upper Tapovan, and they let me arrive a day or two before the program started. It's austere: a basic bedroom, a kitchenette with a kettle, and a wet bathroom where the toilet and sink share one space. The "shower" was a bucket under a showerhead that barely worked. If you're doing a training, expect simple. That's part of the point, but pack accordingly.
Eat & coffee
Since my school was in Upper Tapovan, the cafés in Tapovan and around Laxman Jhula became my second home. Two I kept going back to were Kundan Restaurant & Cafe (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and Cafe Prakriti Plant Based Kitchen. After weeks on the sattvic diet at the ashram, it was a nice break to find food I didn't expect to eat in India. In Laxman Jhula, look for a café with big windows over the river; the view is worth the climb.
My free day: a walk along the Ganges
The day before training started, I walked the river:
1. Morning: breakfast in Tapovan, then down to the wide pebble beaches along the Ganges.
2. Late morning: across the suspension bridge with the giant Hanuman mural, to the Beatles Ashram (Chaurasi Kutiya). The beehive-shaped meditation huts, the colorful Beatles mural and the ruins slowly being taken back by the forest make it one of the most atmospheric places in town.
3. Afternoon: Parmarth Niketan, with its carved gateway and the huge Shiva statue on the river, where pilgrims bathe in the Ganges.
4. Evening: the Ganga Aarti on the riverbank. Fire, bells, and chanting as the lights come on across the water.
Wander & shop
I loved browsing and chatting with the shopkeepers, especially around Laxman Jhula. What I kept coming back for were scarves, malas, incense and kurtas. Bargain politely; it's expected.
Know before you go
- It's more connected than you'd expect. I paid with Apple Pay almost everywhere. Still carry some cash for small stalls.
- Watch out for the monkeys. Some are trained to grab bags and bring them back to their owner, and any monkey will go for food you're carrying. Keep bags zipped and snacks out of sight.
- Be skeptical of "authentic" gems, stones, and jewelry. A lot of it isn't genuine. Pay souvenir prices, not investment prices.
- Animals are everywhere. Cows, donkeys, and monkeys share the streets and bridges, so give them room.
- Late January to February is a good time to go, with cool mornings and comfortable days.
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